ir a principal |
Ir a lateral
Sitting all alone at a church sale I couldnt resist this little table,
with its arborite top and glossy thick paint cover up.
I started by scrapping and peeling all the white paint and dirt off.
Thats when I found the original pale yellow paint underneath.
I removed the arborite and belt sanded the top smooth,
then moved to the body sanding every inch of the soft yellow paint,
before adding a stain wash.
The entire table got a coat of walnut gel stain before it was polish back.
See how the yellow and the wood stand out now.
Its finished with wipe on poly and wax.
Read More..
 |
| (Just some things...being "tweaked & styled" for upcoming fair.) |
This week I was back to work finishing up two furniture pieces for a booth I have at my sons school fair. I am taking these pieces, as well as, an assortment of mirrors, signs and smaller items. I will let you know how this event goes. I have never had a booth at a fair before!
Because this week and last week has been filled with prepping and painting furniture.
I thought I would give a quick run down of
the items everyone should have on hand to get old furniture ready for painting.
Nothing earth shattering here,
but if you prep your furniture correctly, things will be off to a good start.
- Lay down Rosin Paper - Now everyone needs to have a roll of this! It is available at all home improvement stores and painting stores. I cut a large piece to lay under the furniture I am working on. It lays flat and doesnt bunch like a drop cloth. When I am finished, usually the paper is not ruined with paint, so I just fold it, take it outside, shake any dust off and save it to reuse. It is easy to store unlike dirty and bulky drop cloths. I also use it to wrap signs I ship for my business and I use it to wrap gifts. Best bargain anywhere.
- Put on gloves - I always keep a box of latex or latex free gloves on hand to protect my hands from paint and chemicals.
- Lightly clean furniture up with TSP. Keep a box of this on hand too. It helps remove any residues on furniture so paint will better adhere.
- Now, fill any nicks, or knob holes if you are changing the knob placement, with wood filler. This Elmers product gives a strong repair.
- Once the wood fill is dry, sand it down, as well as, give the whole piece a light sanding, following the grain of the wood. This will give the piece a little extra tooth for the paint to grab. I also follow sanding with another wipe down with the TSP cleaner to remove sanding particles.
- When any wetness from the cleaner is dry, give your piece a final wipe down with a tack cloth to remove any small lint or dust remaining. Again, this stuff is the best, so always keep some on hand. I always use this product before top coating furniture with waxes or polyurethane too.
Find beauty in your day!
Debbie
Read More..
I wanted to donate this solid little guy to a charity auction event that was coming up,
but the description of eligible bachelors had to have fabric seats.
So he stayed with me.
SWHI - single white
with some hygiene issues
I gave him a good shower, a scrub behind the ears, and worked out some of the rough spots.
I mixed a fun color of turquoise using chalk paint and sprayed him.
There was no creaking or groaning from this guy
because of the metal rods that had been built into the frame work.
The next step to this mini makeover was to sand back some of the paint
layers to expose the thick white enamel paint underneath.
The more I worked at it the more wood I liked showing thru.
Minwax paste finishing wax was used to give him baby soft skin.
My rugged little chair is the perfect addition to my back room,
and thats how you spray paint a wooden chair turquoise.
Sharing with:
Anne-Marie sent me an email with the subject line reading ....
*HOW TO GET STARTED*
They have moved into a new house and have bought a beautiful french provincial bedroom set,
and she wants them black.
Ive had this question asked of me many times
so I thought I would share what I told her.
The only way you can use a stain would be to strip every last bit of original finish off all pieces.
So I suggest paint.
I use Cloverdale brand paints myself.
You will need grey primer for black paint, this article I wrote will help explain a bit about primer:
2011/03/white-paint-finish-email-answers.html
I do not use an electric sander, I hand sand most everything excluding when I use a belt sander.
Orbital sanders create circles in the wood grain which I don’t care for in my finished piece.
Many others do use them so this is up to you.
The flatter finish you go with your paint the more control you will have.
If you’re interested in renting a compressor and paint sprayer I would check at home depot’s rental dept.
Start with a coarse sand paper between 50 – 80 to scuff the glossy finish that exists.
Then smooth it out a bit with 240 grit.
All you’re trying to do is rough the surface enough for the primer to adhere,
this is the most important step.
To get a very nice shine in the end you can use minwax furniture polish or minwax
wipe on poly over your paint.
Wall paper is best for drawer liners as it is heavier duty and you have the
option to paste them in. Both Wal-Mart (cheaper) and Home depot
have the black and white damask wall paper.
Silver handles tend to lean more toward the Hollywood glam or regency feel where
white handles will look sharper with more contrast. Both looks are amazing.
Scrub your handles in the sink with soap and water and let dry.
Once dry spray paint them with a can of enamel paint, krylon or rustoleum will work fine.
DO NOT MIX BRANDS OF SPRAY PAINT.
In others words if you run short before finishing (which you shouldn’t)
make sure to buy the same brand again or else the paint will react badly to each other.
The real trick to your paint finish coming out nice and smooth is your primer.
Make sure to use several coats. You can sand it much easier then paint.
It will show you all you imperfects before getting to the final layers of paint.
Run your hand over each layer of primer to feel the bumps and sand them away with 240 grit or higher.
Latex paint takes a min. 28 days to cure so be gentle with your surface once complete.
The darker the paint color the longer the cure time.
Avoid paper sitting on the surface such as magazines right away.
If you choose to finish with paste wax or rub on poly (I love both) this will help
protect the surface more during the curing time.
Let me also suggest you finish one piece at a time to learn and get the feel of things.
You will also get to see the results giving you more motivation to take on the next piece.
The headboard is a nice big flat surface for your to learn with and if mistakes are made they
will probably be hidden by pillows or bedding most of the time.
Opposed to you lying in bed staring at a mistake on the armoire door always staring right back at you.
Make sure to lay it down on its back when priming and painting.
Read More..
In the beginning I used an inexpensive compressor ($90) with a small tank and low pressure capacity.
When I sprayed a large project it couldnt keep up. I had to let the tank refill all the time. So the motor
was running non stop, wave at your neighbor and smile like you have no clue why they are so upset.
It did last several years probably because I was only using it occasionally.
Eventually it finally gave up. Now I was starting to use it more often so I decided to upgrade
and get something a bit more powerful. For my next one I paid $200 at Canadian Tire.
It was twice the capacity at 150 PSI with a 6 gallon tank.
UPDATE:The $200 compressor went after 18 months. I was using it every day so Im not surprised.
In the mean time I learned to buy my tools during Christmas. I got an even better one
the next time and only paid $127 on sale in December.
All this talk about my compressor and you are wondering where is the gun.
The gun is a separate piece and a separate purchase, about $50.
Again watch for specials at Christmas.
This is what mine looks like and it is made by Campell Hausfeld
It is a gravity fed spray gun (paint goes in the pot on top)
with air filter (thats the blue thing at the bottom)
and 1.4mm spray tip. (standard size)
I do not have a dedicated spray booth, area, or room, all I have is the great out doors.
When spraying out doors there are definite pros & cons:
BRIGHT SUMMER DAY
your paint dries quickly but bugs are attracted to your paint
you need sun glass using white paint but there is no threat of rain
be careful of the back or your neck, it burns too! Ive done it.
OVERCAST or CLOUDY SUMMER DAY
your paint dries at a regular rate and there are no bugs
you have some threat of rain but you wont go blind looking at your white paint
and the temperature is much nicer to work in
I love to brush paint furniture
but there are times when spraying is the easiest or obvious choice,
for example I will never brush paint spindles or chairs ever again.
If you get to the point of using a sprayer and you encounter what a clogged gun is like to clean out
you will understand the necessity of my next guide lines for what goes into my gun.
only water base paints
no paints with powders added
thin my paint with water
run the paint through a paint strainer
For thinning your paint for use in a sprayer:
You want to add water slowly, you don’t want it too runny like milk more like cream.
Add small amounts and you’ll get the hang of it quickly.
You will also have to experiment with your spray guns settings.
You should have a spray radios knob and an air pressure setting.
Scroll back to the picture of my gun and you will see one knob on the back and one on the side.
I hope this answers some of your questions for now.
Feel free to ask more if you have them.
Read More..
